Hornillo to Castrojeriz 21km

I took a small walk around Hornillo; I needed to check out the Fuente del Gallo, I'm a sucker for anything that has a Chicken. This little town is a classic pilgrim village and not much has changed over the past centuries. The Alberque served paella, I'll say not my favourite, the green salad and bread were good.  I was again in a 10 bed room, the bunk beds squeaked and the lights from the Calle never dimmed.  There was a couple of women, who sat on their bunk and stared at me all night 👀 wtf!

It's been a tough day.  My word for to day is perseverance. This is no walk in the park, the ground is hard, I guess I should be thankful the weather was cooperative.  It was a  gentle climb back onto the Meseta, then a steep descent to San Bol; apparently the waters from the well are said to have healing properties that cure aching feet.  I hope so my feet ache.  We stopped in Hantanas for a cold drink an bite to eat, then it was 6km along a goat tract where there was way to much human waste, the path was littered with toilet paper; man pilgrims are pigs.  Read the book "how to shit in the woods". I put my ear buds in as I needed something else to think about.  We wondered down the road until San Anton came into view. It's an ancient monastery and hospice of the Antonine Order founded in France in the 11th century.  Very cool spot.  A couple clicks down the road and we are in Castrojeriz home of the church of our lady of the apple.  Our Alberque is again one of the last in the town.  It's new and has a nice feel, but again I messed up the bag transfer so here I sit waiting.  Wish me luck that it arrives and the thieves don't charge me another 25 euros. I've been away 2O days, I'm missing my people.  When I realized my bag hadn't arrived I just wanted to cry, apparently I need to call this company for pick up, the one I'd been using before Burgos was way simpler, you filled in the ticket and put your bag at reception and viola it was at my next destination.  Feeling much better, I've had a couple of beers with some pilgrims and I'm going to meet them for dinner...they told me not to cry.  So I won't!

Saturday evening in Burgos

After touring the cathedral I had a couple of beers and a big ass plate of pasta with mushrooms and cream sauce.  Wrote some postcards but wasn't able to find any stamps so I guess I'll carry them till the next town.  Headed back to my hotel for a siesta, man that felt great!  I ran into Heather, she's from Lake Cowichan, she's got bad knees and is struggling to walk anywhere.  We had a couple of drinks and chatted, then walked a bit an found another bar; I think we could have a lot of fun but she's on the bus., so most likely won't be seeing her again.  Virginia has booked her accommodations from Sarria on ward, she's worried about somewhere to stay.  I'm gonna wing it, as I'm not sure if I'll walk the meseta, thinking of biking through.  We shall see.

Sunday morning;  Burgos to Hornillo del Camino

We left Burgos at 7am, it was still dark; you could tell by the condition of the Calles that it had been a Saturday night, garbage and broken bottles and  urine stained streets. It was fun but time to get back on the way. We crossed over the Rio Arlanzón and passed the university of Burgos.  It's 11.1km to Tardajos, were we stopped for a drink an a bocadillo, it was fresh, so easy to eat😊.  As we trudged along we could hear music, it was coming from a beautiful little chapel; we stopped in for a few minutes. Once we reached Rabé de las Calzadas; the Meseta begins a high plain barely covered with trees. Meseta comes from the Spanish word mesa and means table, plate or plain.  Today is cloud covered so that made for nice walking. We walked for another 8km, a total of 21 km. We arrived at the meeting place, our Alberque at 12:30.  It always feels good to see my pack when I arrive but not today 😂 it was never picked up from the hotel.. Geez I wish I'd known I needed to call the transfer company.   The young hospitalera was kind enough to track it down, it'll cost be a few more euros, 25 to be exact so while I wait, the flies buzz around me but my friend San Miguel is here to keep me company.

Burgos

It's Friday night and the streets are alive, after mass I met up with Toni, Trudy & Glenn, they'd already toured the cathedral and are heading out this morning.  I had a glass of vino with them and wished them Buen Camino,  chances are we will not cross paths again.  They have no rest days built into their Camino.  Even in Spain I have no luck with restaurants, it was suggested I go to La Mafia, I ordered baked cod; unfortunately Gordon was not at the pass to YELL this fish is raw! When it arrived at my table it looked amazing but once I started into it, it was crudo y frio, I couldn't be bothered to send it back so I mopped up the sauce with my bread and ate as much of the fish as I could,  dang the little cherry  tomatoes were warmer than that cod!  But the vino was good.  The Hotel Jacobeo is charming an located in the heart of the historical district, right on the Camino de Santiago.  I stopped at the bar in my hotel for a night cap and ran into Virginia's German friends, they asked me to call her and have her come down for a glass of wine.  We chatted until 11ish then it was lights out, they were getting up early and heading home, their 3rd Camino was done.

Saturday

It was a treat to sleep between two sheets 😍 I woke at 8:15; which was also pleasant, no rustling bags or other obnoxious noises!  I had a wonderful cafe while waiting for my laundry.  Im off to the Santa Maria Cathedral for a tour.  I was lucky enough to see a wedding before touring the gothic cathedral; wow it sure was amazing. The quilters eye picked up a gazillion patterns, the 8 pointed star, half square triangles and many more geometric patterns.  I loved all the carvings and stained glass.  I'll probably have a kink in my neck from looking at the incredible ceilings.  The cathedral really pops against the blue sky.  Until next time, Buen Camino 👣👣👣👣👣👣

Villafranca Montes de Oca to Burgos

It's 8:15am, I sitting here waiting for the bus along with about 10 others.  My feet need a break so I'll be taking it easy these next few days.  I've booked Hotel Jacobeo for two nights.  Really looking forward to not sleeping in a room of 20.  Maybe a nice set of sheets and a good pillow will lift my spirits.  I'm excited to tour the cathedral de Santa Maria XIII, apparently one of the most beautiful in Spain.  El Cid and his wife Jimena lie under a huge star lantern at the heart of the cathedral.  Hotel San Anton Abad is probably the best Alberque so far.  The meal was very good; spaghetti with tomato sauce, pork ribs, tiramisu and vino tinto was my choice.  The pilgrim menu has about 5 main choices.  Had a night cap in the bar and was in bed around 9pm.  It was a single bed with pony walls so a bit of privacy, the bed squeaked when you moved; just imagine;  20 people snoring and when they move the bed squeaks 😜 maybe they designed the squeaking beds to mask all the night noises LOL!  It's surprising how many pilgrims walk in the dark, they try an creep out around 5:30, it's not light till about 7:45, some are walking 40 & 50 kilometres a day, not sure the point in that, but each to their own.  I met a couple from Georgia and some how Raleigh, North Carolina was brought up and I was telling them about  "Wagon Wheel" we racked our brain trying to figure out the musician, we settled on Darius Rucker.  That song puts a lump in my throat!  Be missing my man!  Just gotta walk 540 more Kilometers.  It's grey, cool and misty this morning. In Burgos, just came from mass and now heading out for vino Tinto and food.  Yeah two days off!  👣👣👣👣👣👣

Belorado to Villafranca Montes de Oca

Last nights Alberque apparently had the best food in town; the food was good.  They had awesome ice cream.  The setting was lovely - garden, pool and chicken coops.  It was nice but I didn't like the bedding! I'm hoping I haven't attracted any cinches!  The walk into Belorado was a bit bleak and friggin' hot.  Head down and one foot in front of the other.  We didn't leave Belorado until 8am since it's a short day - 12 km.  It was cool with the cloud cover.  We stopped in Villambistia for one of those amazing good cafe con leches.  It's harvest time so the combine harvesters are crawling over the hills making big bails and dropping them out like those silly toys that poop out chocolate treats! LOL  I guess your mind wanders when you walk.  We ran into Kathy who we'd seen on and off since SJPDP. She's suffering;  first ankle issues and major blisters but she's stubborn and refuses to transfer her pack or take a rest day.  Yikes!  I fear she will be crawling into Santiago on her knees!  As I write this I'm sitting in a lovely cool bar in Villafranca.  It's named  for the mountains to the west.  It sits at the foot of the Pedraja pass.  I had a grande and a peuena crevza and a few bowls of patatas fritas.  There are several heads of Animals keeping their eye on me!   I've booked a hotel in Burgos for Friday and Saturday night, I'm sure there will be lots to see. I better go shower.  It's only 2:15 and I'm not very good at day drinking!  Until Burgos ❤️👣👣👣

Santo Domingo de la Calzada - Belorado. 23.9km (^300m + 1.5k)

We left before sunset.  It's cold enough to see your breath.  Most of today's walk was parallel to the A12; a big highway, lots of trucks.  They honked and waved when they saw pilgrims with their pants down squatting in the farmers field 😳.  I enjoyed walking past the fields of wheat, potatoes and other crops.  The sunflowers looked way past harvestable, but what do I know.  I'm not a farmer just a lowly pilgrim trudging along the gravel or tarmarc pathway making my way to the next bed and shower.  We passed several small villages which really helps break up the distance even though not many people live in them.  Most just service the pilgrims with family run Alberques and bars.  We had a cafe in Granon and a lunch break once we passed into the province of Castilla y Leon.  There is a lot of pilgrims with blisters and limps.  We are a sorry lot!

I secured a bed in Cuartos Cantones; the last Alberque in the village.  It's full because the owner drove up the pathway with cold water around 2:00pm advertising his business. I got a couple of San Miguel's  out of the vending machine and consumed them while sitting in the garden by the pool.  I called Kadi to wish her a Happy Birthday.  I was very emotional; it was lovely to hear her voice.  It was a communal dinner tonight.  Seems I'm liking ensalada mixta and roast pollo.  I must remember the fish is called merlu not piscado.  I was pretty bagged so was in bed around 9.  Today's walk will be short - 12km to Villafranca Montes de Orca.  Until next time.

Buen Camino. 👣👣👣👣👣

Najera to Santo Domingo de la Calzada 22.8km (^300m + 1.5 km)

We walked back towards the river and found lots of pilgrims sitting around eating and drinking and swapping stories of the 30km walk.  I ordered pasta and shared a bottle of Valetin Pascual.  My pasta took forever to arrive, but Toni from Mexico chewed on the waiter and viola I got my pasta!  I hope to run into her again.  She was teaching me how to swear in Spanish 😊.  Slept pretty good.  We were up and on the way before sunrise.  We walked mostly on wide country tracks and gently undulating paths through farmland.  It looks like we've left wine country. I walked with Gaye from Australia for about 8 km.  She has bronchitis and her walking partner was pissed at her because she snored all night 💤💤.  It's amazing what people talk about.  She was so happy that I told her that it was a lovely idea for her daughter to want to join her for a week.   We passed through a town called Ciruena; very eery,  the village is ready for a Hitchcock movie.  Strange thing - it had a lovely looking golf course.  I used the pack transfer service again today.  It seems to help take the weight of my foot; I figure if I have to limp across España I don't need to carry my pack.  I need energy to see the town once I get there!  We made good time today.  I actually passed some pilgrims 😊.  We made it to our destination at 1pm.  We're in a 211 bed Alberque Casa de la Cofradia del Santo.  It's garden has a chicken coop and this is the village with the chicken in the church.  It's  funny to watch people - they're sniffing gonch and armpits of their clothes.  Hell I only wash my clothes every other day; when I smell my funk as I'm walking down the road it's time to do the washing 😜. I went to the cathedral with the chickens and up the bell tower.  Had a really great cena with some fellow pilgrims; Toni and Glenn from the USA and Trudy from New Zealand.  We are into another province tomorrow and heading to Belorado, 24km with the elevation.

Logrono to Najera (La Rioja) 30.4km (^300m + 1.5 km)

September 20, 2016 - LOGRONO TO NAJERA (LA RIOJA)-

What a crazy night in Logrono; we had 8 bunks and only 3 women..  I'm going to try my hardest to avoid that situation again.  The hostel was on the main square where there was hundreds of people celebrating the wine festival.  It was fun to see but very noisy!  So not much 💤💤 well there was some snoring!  We were up at 6 and on the way by 7pm - we left before dawn...big ass walk 👣👣👣👣I've never walked that far so I decided to push my pack and I'm sure glad I did.  It took us 9 hours with a few stops for breakfast and lunch!  It was a really nice day.  Not too hot and a nice breeze blowing through the vineyards.  Brierley says the natural pathways turn to red red clay soil of La Rioja - beautiful in the sun 😄 and a nightmare in the wet as it clings to footwear like a leech! After our lunch stop in Ventosa I put my ear buds in for the next 11 km.  I walked and sang a little and it helped with the rhythm.  My foot was sore but I advilled up and carried on singing, walking on sunshine and to a few Amy Winehouse tunes.  The grapes were so tasty.  I hope I get to see some of the harvest.  Think I've even got some energy to go find dinner and a glass or two of Vino Tinto.  We secured a 3 bedroom with a toilet and shower; what a treat!  So far we've walked about 190km - a quarter of the way!

Los Arcos to Lorgono

Considering I'm sleeping in a room of 8 people and on rubber mattresses I slept pretty good. Up at 6:15 and down at the kitchen by 6:30 only to find all that was left was bread and jam.  Tried the coffee but lumps came out of the milk jug 😳 I took a pass.  Had some white bread with jam hoping I wouldn't choke on it.  We headed out by 7:30 - it was cold but not raining.  We opted for a bus ride to Viana but the bus never came so we hooked up with a couple of British people who had bad feet and called at taxi.  Should have known it would be a crazy ride.  The woman driver shows up minutes later and pops the trunk before she puts it in park; she can't find park so reversed into the Brit putting his pack in the trunk 😱.  We settle on 45 e for the trip and in we get in.  Full speed ahead.  I'm sure she was flying over those hills.  Thank god I'm short cause when we landed my head didn't bash into the roof of the car.  The ride gave Virginia a headache.  I just laughed and put on my seat belt.  I guess that's what happens when you ride instead of walk. LOL. We got dropped off in Viana, 10km before Lorgono.  I missed the Torres Del Rio; it's a village linked to the Knights Templar and it had a cool octagonal church.  But that's the sacrifice.  I had a cafe con leche and potato tortilla, which was very good then we struck off.  Viana is a very old, medievel village that apparently  hasn't changed much - love the ancient streets.  We passed into La Rioja the next Province.  Lots of vineyards.  I did stop to taste the grapes.  Tasted pretty good. The field crops are harvested except the grapes, fruit and olives trees.  I walked into town with some British folk who had recently been to Vancouver.  Chatting and walking brought us to the bridge we cross and into the city.  It's Sunday so all you hear are church bells.  It's also the start of a weeklong wine festival so the main square where we are staying is crowded and very loud!  It's almost 30km to our next destination and I'm thinking of having my pack transported so that I get there before midnight.  Should be an interesting night.  We're in a dorm of at least 16; mostly men.  Maybe one day my room will,look like this chicas.

Estella to Los Arcos

It sure was a treat to have a room.  Only had to share with Virginia; kinda nice not having to sit on broken toilet seats or have to go in after someone else has.  Pretty sure by the time I reach Santiago I might have my gag reflex under control. LOL. It's pretty weird to be sitting on the toilet and then it goes pitch black and ya wonder wtf; just start waving your hands around and magically the lights come back on.  No sitting around reading the paper!  Baahaaa.  I had some scrambled eggs, bacon and a cafe con leche and we were off.  It was still dark when we left at 7:30.  We climbed out of town and came across a Spanish forger.  He's got himself a great business - he forms all kinds of little scallop shells and horseshoes.  He's not as skilled as Dave but he looks like he's having a good time. Next stop was the famous Fuente del Vino where we were able to get wine or water before our journey ahead; compliments of the Bodegas.   Pretty sure no one took the aqua!  The walk was actually not that bad; must be getting use to the elevation. We went through remote vineyards, I learned my lesson yesterday to keep my distance from the grapes.  It was a very ventoso dia, it rained on us a little but the wind stayed all day.  Head down - all I heard was crunch crunch crunch of the gravel under foot; poncho flapping in the wind and the constant sniff of my nose!  After the cafe movil we still had 6 clicks to go.  Plant, push, propel and the next thing we saw our next destination. We didn't even have to call ahead to say we would be late!  Arrived at 2:30.  I could barely make it up the 3 flights of stairs to my bunk. And who would leave their passport at the reception desk?  No worries - got it back!  Did some bunk bed yoga, had a shower and a few clean beers!  Feeling good. It's gonna be a short day tomorrow.  We're heading for Lagrono... Wine festival!

Puente la Reina to Estella

Was a beautiful morning!  I peaked my head out the window and saw the moon as dawn was breaking.  We headed out at 7:30. The first section has steep climbs to 3 hilltop villages before descending in to Estella.  We passed farmland and vineyards.  I was going to take a close up of the grapes but when I stepped off the path I sunk up to my ankle in red clay. 😱  Dang!  I didn't need any more weight. Cirauqui  is a medieval hilltop village with narrow winding streets and lots of houses with crests. It sits at 500m.  I think every village is built on a hill because years ago they needed to see their enemys coming.  Then it was on to Lorca.  The walk is a lot of heads down; watching your step; when I did lift my head I saw almond and olive trees, wild blueberries and blackberries too.   I stopped in Villatuerta to confirm our beds since they were only keeping the reservation until 3pm.  The hosperila told me not to worry.  So we walked on and reached our destination at 3:30 just in time for the rain.  Got into my room and showered and had a quick nap.  At dinner we saw 3 Canadian women.  They are from Nanaimo.  One knows Mark and Donna.  Her name is Susan and said her daughter and Jeremy were good friends in elementary school.  She also lived on  Strathmore.  Her maiden name is Susan Bull and she knew Bonnie Sekora.   I'm thinking that Raye might remember her.  We had a nice pilgrim meal and now I'm off to sleep.  It's 8:30pm - it was a long day!  Heading to Los Arcos another big early morning climb - 690m. 

Pamplona to Puente la Reina

Feeling much better today.  Thank you Imodium and Zantac.  We bypassed walking out of Pamplona and started at Zariquiegui which is at the base of our first steep climb; It's through the middle of the wind turbines to Alto del Perdon at 750m.  Had a snack from the food truck and took in the Beautiful views back over Pamplona and westward over the Arga valley.  It was a pretty steep descent over boulders but I seemed to manage well enough. We walked through villages that seemed deserted.  I'm thinking they were all at work in Pamplona.  We arrived around 2:00 only to find there was no bed at the Alburque I'd emailed, so off to another.  Fortunately we found a bed in Amalur, some grumpy woman checked us in and led us to our top bunk and handed us a paper sheet... I guess you don't get much for 10 euros.  The shower was hot and they had a washer and dyer.  I splurged as I'd been saving up my clothes.  I guess that probably means I didn't need to bring that many clothing items. 😏 I haven't seen the bridge that this village is known for.  We will pass over it on our way out.  Had a nice dinner at the bar - spaghetti, chicken, fries (which I didn't eat) a couple of clean beers.  We actually had enough energy to stroll around and take a few pictures before we ended up back at the bar for a couple of vino tintos.  Apparently it might help me sleep better.  Pretty sure my body wonders what has happened to all that boxed wine I'd been consuming.  I spent some time looking for beds for the next couple of nights as there seems to be a bed race here on The Way.  Lovely bartender called ahead and secured us a couple of beds in Estella and I found one in Los Arcos so we can take our time walking as the next few days are 23.5kms with elevation gains around the 600 - 700 meters.  It's cool, hopefully no rain in the forecast.

Zubiri to Pamplona

I secured a couple of beds in Pamplona via booking.com the night before, so no bed race - Yeah!  We left at 8:15am; we crossed back over the Puente de la Rabia.   It's a medieval bridge that crosses the Rio Arga.   It's named Rabia because of the legend that any animal led 3 times around the central arch would be cured of rabies.  It's also most likely a site of a former leprosarium.  We climbed up a concrete path past the Magna Magnesitas Navarras industrial complex.  Brierley says it's bleak.  I say industry is needed everywhere.  The high point today is 560m - we walked by hamlets and crossed over the Rio Arga several times, stopped and took a break at Zuriain then continued to climb past an old abandoned quarry.  We made it to Opcion.  I was baked.   Nothing worse than having to relieve ones self and there's no where to go but the woods.  I guess I should have read that book "how to shit in the woods". 😂  It was a hard slog after lunch so hailed a taxi for the last 8km avoiding the hard city pavement.  My foot appreciated the ride.  We checked into Hemingway hostel at 2:15 and took a nap.  Siesta time is between 4 and 6pm.  I am needing a good nights sleep! We went out for pintxos and ran into some pilgrims. Gonna try and get some sleep!  Off to Puete la Reina tomorrow.

Roncesvalles to Zubiri

 23.9km adjusted for the climb

After the crazy non sleep and bathroom zombies we had a ham, cheese and hard bread breakfast and then we were off. We'd heard that rain was in the forecast so I dug out my rain gear for future use. The path really reminded me of home; 83% of today's walk is in the woodlands, lots of shinrin yoku; Forest bathing.  Anyways this stage leads downhill across the fertile plains of the rio Erro. After our coffee stop in Burguete we saw a beautiful rainbow and then it started to rain.  It rained on and off through the first 900m climb.  Lunch stop was in Viskarret, an Aquarius and two hard boiled eggs; no they were not 8 minute eggs but then a pilgrim gets what they are offered.  Next climb was 820m to Alto de Erro.  We could hear the thunder and then torrential rain.  Unfortunately my sea to summit could not protect all from the rain but my stuff in my pack stayed dry so that's really all that matters. Virginia really wanted to take a taxi because she was worried that the alberque would give away our beds, so I agreed to the taxi in the next town but after the Alto, the taxi option was non existing.  Only choice was all the way down into Zubiri.  John Brierley says don't over extend yourself today! LOL 😂  he says close the gate and be careful of the steep decent into Zubiri.  Bring on the thunder, bring on the rain... Exposed slippery rocks with the rain turns the dry dirt into mud.  Thank God for those poles.  I slipped only when I reached the very bottom of the 3.4km decent.  We arrived in Zubiri 9 hours later drenched like wet rats and hoping the woman at the alberque kept our reservation.  If not then Virginia said I'd have to find the next bed.  We lucked out and we have a single bed each in a 8 bed dorm, I'm the only one that can't speak French. Yeah quiet time, I just did bunk bed yoga and wrote.  When we went down to dinner we met many pilgrims we'd seen  throughout the last few days. Most are women.   How cool is that?  Anyways - I ordered meat and I got pork ribs 😊 yeah me.  My Spanish is paying off.  Amazing dinner with everyone.. A mom, Loretta  and daughter, Sharon  from South Africa are walking together, Sharon is suffering from foot issues, so I offered to tape her, I'm hoping her walk tomorrow is easier.   Seems walking on flat ground hurts the most.  It's still raining and we have another 25km tomorrow.   Apparently it's mostly flat.  😄

Up and over the Pyrenees into Spain

Orisson to Roncesvalles

Wow -  what a day.!  We had a lovely communal dinner; soup, roast chicken, veggies, bread, dessert and unlimited amounts of red wine.  I only had 2 glasses since I had a very big climb ahead of me. Orisson is at 800 m and we climbed to the summit, Lepoeder at 1400m  then down to Roncesvalles at 1000m.  After breakfast of bread & jam and a big bowl of coffee we were ready.  The climb seemed easier than the day before maybe because of the grade but a longer distance.  It was clear and very windy.   Probably blowing 45 if not more. When I mention "we"  that's Virginia and me.   She's from Montreal and traveling on her own.  I met her on the train from Bayonne. The views are like walking in postcards.  Very picturesque - wild horses, lots of black faced sheep, white cows and hill tops and more hill tops.  The last few km of the day was the hardest.  We arrived in the Valley of Thorns at 3pm.   The monastery has about 200 beds!  It was full by 6pm and they were sending pilgrims to further destinations.  The pilgrim's office in SJPDP has been processing 500 pilgrims a day.  So it appears there will be a bed race tomorrow.  I had a beer with my trout and Frits dinner, then went to mass and received the pilgrim's blessing.  Then it was off to bed. I say bed because that 200 bed dorm is exactly like the one Martin Sheen stayed in, in "The Way".  Not much snoring but the bright lights turned on every two hours and then zombie bathroom walkers thumping up and down the long halls and  slamming doors.  The lights were turned on at 6am and the bed race is on. 21km hike to Zubiri.

St Jean Pied de Port to Orisson

John Brierley's  guide book says 8 km, but my fit bit says 12km... I'm going with the Fitbit!  It was a spectacular climb; we passed white cows, I think they're Charlemagne, donkeys, horses.  When we stopped for a break and there was many, we looked back and OMG it was so beautiful. It's 32* friggin hot! Virginia and I are so happy we booked Orisson.  I think we climbed to 800 m!  Feeling very emotional, maybe it's the exhaustion or I'm just so thrilled to finally be walking my Camino.  We headed out at 8:20 and arrived at our destination just after 1pm.  Checked in and then had a dirty beer and a ham and cheese sandwich. A dirty beer is a beer before you shower all that sweat off.  We got a token for a 5 minute shower.  I was able to wash myself and at the same time I put my stinky clothes on the floor and stomped on them.  At the movement they're hanging in the sun to dry.  At last nights Alberque they had a spinner that took out most of the water.  I rearranged my pack, brought way too much stuff and am now sitting outside enjoying the view and some quiet time.  It's another communal dinner tonight. I managed to snag another bottom bunk in a ten bed dorm.  Last nights sleep wasn't too bad.   I was awake between 2 'n 3.  Pretty sure I'll sleep better tonight. Tomorrow we have another big up hill day.   We will make the summit at 1400 m and then down into Spain to Roncevaux (that's the French spelling of Roncesvalles).

Saint Jean Pied de Port

                                     

I have arrived at the starting point of my Camino... It's 3pm and its 26*.  It's suppose to reach 32 tomorrow.  I will head out right after breakfast.  I've met a few women traveling on their own. Veronica is a Canadian from Montreal and asked me to walk up to Orisson which is our next stop. 8km up hill all the way!  It was very busy at the pilgrim office but everything went very smoothly. Got my first stamp and a scallop shell.  Had a lovely fish dish and a nice cold beer for lunch.  Got checked in to the Beilari Aterpea. $30 e for a bunk, dinner and breakfast.  There's another Joan staying so the owner thought it was funny to put the two Joan's together.  I got there first so I took the bottom bunk 😊.  I'm planning on blaming the snoring on him. St Jean is a pretty little town. Terra cotta roofs and cobble stone streets - lots of tourists too.  It's quite an assortment of pilgrims from all over, I've met an Italian, German, Dutch, French and lots of Canadians.  I ran into Kathy from Tsawwassen.  She's feeling pretty jet lagged so will start in a few days.  I'm taking a quiet moment after showering and doing my laundry.  Tonight we have a communal meal and its lights out at 10pm. Breakfast served at 6:30 - 7:30.  Then it's out through the portal

Riding the rails

I had a little while before heading to the Paris Montparnasse train station so I headed over to Jardin du Luxembourg for a stroll; it was first created in 1612 by Maria de' Medic, the widow of king Henry the IV for their new palace the Luxembourg.  It's now  occupied by the French senate which explains the machine gun toting guards.

I've been reading  Hemingway's a Movable feast and these are the gardens he met Miss Stein in.   I could have walked to the station but thought I might get lost in the maze of narrow Paris streets so I took at 23 euro taxi ride. I was an hour early as I wanted to get my bearings, probably knowing a few French words would have come in handy.  I noticed that lots of people were standing around the departure sign.

It took me a few minutes to realize they were waiting on the voie number. I had the train number but had no idea where it might be..  When the number in the voie column flipped to reveal what gate your train was at people started to scurry.  I waited for my train voie # to be revealed and then set off for that platform. Ok, got the location of the train but what car and what seat?  Using my observation skills I noticed that voiture must be train car.  I found that on my ticket voiture 09 - place 62.  Now I'm thinking I might be getting smart like Jackie 😊 lol. Lifting my pack onto the shelf way above my head was challenging.  Being short has its drawbacks. A young man got on in Bordeaux St. Jean and remarked that it was a terrible place.  I'd noticed he had the Outdoor Camino guide book in his pack, the German equivalent or better of Brierleys.  He asked if I spoke French - he had no clue either.  I just told him I was listening for my stop. He introduced himself as Toby from Germany.  He told me that he'd been on a two week bike ride with his best friend and all he saw was his buddies ass end, so by walking the Camino he might see something else 😄.  He's 26 years old, teaching in a catholic school who's mom is worried about him.  "Tobias must you walk 800km in 5 weeks"?.  We discussed our options; train, bus, mule and had a good laugh.  We wished each other well.  I used Siri to help me find my lodging in Bayonne.  It's right across the street from a charcuterie shop with a French pig painted on the wall.  Making my way to the train station and off to SJPDP.  It's very hot and I'm sweaty!  Let the Camino begin!

Hop on Hop Off

Paris.....clear, sunny and 24 degrees

It's been a hop on hop off day. I opted for the green line since I wanted to see the Eiffel Tour.  It was a very long queue to get through security buy a sommet zone and then go through more security checks. Herded and squished into an elevator  up we went.  If I had a nut sack I think it would have shrunk, if that's what nut sacks do when they get a rush of anxiety. Anyways it was crazy busy so I took some pictures and headed back down and hopped back on the bus, I saw about 19 things one's suppose to see.  Took a walk around the Louvre, got some shots of the love locks hanging on Pont-Neuf bridge. I thought people might be hunting Pokemon but most are just self absorbed taking selfies... Think I might throw mine away.  I take terrible selfies 😊 but then again I fit right in!

Popped back into my room for a wee rest before I decided what and where to go next.  I was thinking I'd like to ride on the Seine in one of them there fancy river boats, but it's not the same without my HB so I took a stroll.  The rivers edge was packed with couples sitting drinking beer & wine chatting and laughing as the dinner boats sailed by.  Very cool - never will that be a sight in Canada. Put in about 11km walking the river district; man these Parisians are risk takers. Walkers challenge big trucks, bikes, cars and cyclists all moving in different directions. One could sit in a little cafe and be amused for hours. I finally settled on Los Patios because I could enjoy my dinner while  the jazz quartet played.  No city lights, I'm bagged.  I'll save that for HB 'n me to share one day.  Just enjoying a latte and yogurt before I head to the train station; its a 5 hour ride through countryside to Bayonne the Basque region in Southern France.

Thank you Lattimer family for a most enjoyable day in Paris, hotel Trianon Rive Gauche is absolutely delightful.

E = Up Up and Away.....

The excitement started when I realized I hadn't checked in 24 hours earlier... I yelled down the hall for John to help...he calmly went on line and found where I needed to check in.  I then discovered that the error of my name really had not been fixed months ago.  So we had to forgo the coffee with Julia but I did stop by to give Kurt his shell.. As we drove through that lovely rush hour traffic I managed to get my electronic boarding passes.. The young man at Air Canada assured me the name was no issue. Had a quick breakfast with John before I nervously entered the security area where I was asked if I was travelling alone, yeah me; I was specially treated to further inspection. I was asked to take my money belt off and when I received my bin back there was no money belt 😱  I politely asked where it was, I was politely told she had not seen it 😳😱😱 panic was about to set in when she noticed the black belt on the floor under the scanner!  Yikes! Money belt has now been reattached to my hips! The flight was uneventful, I ate my soggy ham sandwich without gagging.  I watched a movie about a down and out chef looking for his 3rd michellan star (Burnt) and a sappy Mother's Day movie helped me pass the 4 1/2 hours nicely.

Leg 2 Montreal to Paris flight AC870 departs at 20:55
Had a $13 glass Pinot Grigio and a crappy Caesar salad at Arcchibald microbrasserie, in the restricted area - international Gate 51. The Arcchibald is apparently known for delicious food; a Caesar salad with capers and hot peppers didn't lift my skirt... Oh ya I'm not wearing a skirt!  No issue boarding with my misspelled name.  I found Seat 54A at the back of the Boeing 777, no seat mates. Took my boots off and got comfortable for the 6 1/2 hour flight. AC870 served a very good chicken and vegetable meal complete with moist brownie and a small bottle of French white wine.  The waitress in the sky even asked if I'd like ice.   Someone on board was giving out some howls in their sleep.  It gave us other passengers a giggle! Watched The jungle book and caught some shut eye.  Deplaning and getting through customs was painless.  The border police didn't even look at me.  Picked up my pack and hailed a taxi, 1/2 hour later I checked into my room.  Gonna grab a shower then go see Paris.