Trabedelo - La Faba 17km + 920m

We had a nice dinner at a little bar that serves homemade food... It's a rarity on the Camino.  I opted for bacon n eggs.  We had the room to ourselves last night, so it wasn't an issue turning on the light at 6:30am. We were out the door at 7:30, the stars were twinkling although it was cold.  I'd layered up, you can feel that fall is in the air.

This leg takes you through lots of little villages, it was pretty much up hill so having a few distractions was good.  You could see the massive motor way above.  The last 1.4km was a steep accent through chestnut trees.  Ok that's an acorn tree, just seeing if your paying attention after your glutinous turkey dinners!

As I made my way, I thought of Ruth and her advice to keep the heart rate the same. So I kept the same pace an up I went, sweat was dripping off the end of my nose, but I didn't need to stop.  This is the down before the up!

La Faba is a delightful hamlet.  We've booked into the Albergue at the bottom of the hill, go figure!  Tomorrow the path continues up through the Valcarce valley lined with Spanish chestnut trees.  The view is suppose to be splendid but geez the weatherman is calling for rain..  It's thanksgiving, no bird for me.

 Theses hills are full of vegetarians. I wish you all a Happy Thanksgiving.  Until I'm up and over into
Galicia Buen Camino 👣👣👣👣

Cacabelos - Trabadelo 19km

I capped my night with a plate of pulpa (octopus) while I chatted with John, who sorted out my banking issues and with my sister Judy, my blogger guru.  I was happy to give some pulpa to other pilgrims to try.  After I had my fill I passed it on to the next table and they finished it off.

We tried to be up an gone by 7:30, but it was closer to 8, who can pass up a grande cafe. I amused myself with the designs on the sidewalks until we reached the gravel track.  I love the manhole cover,  I thought of you Donna D.

We wound are way up through the vineyards, We carried on up an down through the rolling hills down into Villafranca Del Bierzo.

We stopped and had a bocadillo, we needed to fuel up for the next 10km.  I had decided that I wanted to take the optional route but when we got to the junction, two locals said in Spanish that it was a proplema, so we opted for the lower road.  It felt like I was walking to Squamish, the Rio Pereie was on my left instead of Howe sound.

 If I could have found a way to soak my feet in the river I'd still be there. 👣😂.  It's another hot day in Spain, they are having the equivalent extra summer as our Indian summers, ya that's not politically correct but I bet Donald would say Indian too! Hell he'd probably
Y say something far more outrageous.  This village (Trabadelo)  looks to be a mill town, lots of cut trees stacked on the streets  and a sawmill.  It's  up an over the top of the mountain tomorrow.  When I left Villafranca the marker said 187km to Santiago.

  Feel free to email me at caminodejoan@gmail.com if you've got something to say.  If not until tomorrow Buen Camino 👣👣👣👣

Ponferrada - Cacabelos 16km

We left quite late this morning, 9am.  I didn't get much sleep in the snoozaryum.  I was also having some trouble with the bank machine, it wouldn't give me any euros. The Camino is cash based, so one needs a pocket full.

It was a pretty easy walk out of town, I met a few pilgrims I'd seen along the way.

  That's always nice to see a familiar face, even if you don't really know them.  I didn't stop until I'd walked 7.5km, I think I just wanted to get moving.  I passed small chapels and old tired vineyards. I stopped at Fuentes Nuevas for a cold drink.  Janis seemed to think I was moving to quick so I stopped at a wine Cooperativa Vinas Del Bierzo and had a glass of vino tinto and a tapa. That was around noon.

I think I'll stick to the no alcohol before the days walk is done, as it seemed to slow me down even more. We reached Cacabelos just before two.  It was another sunny hot day in Spain.  When I left Ponferrada at 9 it was 20 degrees, so as the day progressed it must have reached 26.  This is another medieval town and it has such charm.  After a good snooze, I showered and joined Janis in the square, she was 4 deep and sitting with a fellow from the Basque Country, he's a musician who plays a rustic flute.  He has been entertaining the square for hours.  Kathy from  Tsawwassen is staying at the same Alberque, such a small world.  Until tomorrow

 Buen Camino my friends 👣👣👣👣

El Acebo - Ponferrada 19km

We were served a nice cena, I had salad and spaghetti carbonara and ice cream an vino tino of course.  We had a fabulous view from our deck.  Once the sunset I went to bed.

We were up at 6:30, but didn't strike out till daylight, it's hard enough walking on a goat trail, I didn't think I needed the extra challenge.

Our first stop was in this pretty little mountain town, with over hanging balconies and beautiful flowers; Riego de Ambros would be a sweet romantic getaway!

We continue down the goat trail, lots of slate, and boulders to navigate.. I'm thankful we had another sunny day.  Today when pilgrims passed me I greeted them with baa, instead of the usual Buen Camino.  They just laughed, some hugged me too.  I'm not sure what sound a goat makes but it was pretty funny.   After 4.7km we cross over the Puente de Peregrinos into Molinaseca.  The bridge is amazing.  It was about 11ish and I was getting hambre.  I spied a sign advertising a bacon, eggs and beans desayuno for 4 euros.  It's probably the best food I've had yet and the setting was magical.

Onward to Ponferrada about another 8kms, it was a hard walk, mostly on pavement, the rest on dusty tracks.  When I finally reached  Av. Del Castillo I was delighted to see the Castillo de los Templarios, the magnificent 12th century Templar castle.  I ran into Kelly and we walked to Albergue Guiana and got checked in.

I really wanted to go back to the castle, so after I found a bank machine I went back and found a bar across the street so I could have a cerveza  and admire the view.  It opened a 6pm, Kelly an I decided we needed to go tour it, this is her first time in Europe too!
I'm back at the Albergue, showered an hanging out in the common room.  My dogs are tired so I think I'll take it easy.  It's a short walk tomorrow 16km to Cacabelos.  I need to figure out my timing so I can be coming into the square in Santiago so that my people will be.  Geez, writing that must mean I'm actually gonna make it to Santiago!

Rabanal Del Camino - Acebo 17 grueling kilometers

I had a lovely siesta from 4 to 6, then did my shopping for tomorrow's walk.
We're heading to La Cruz de Ferro at 1505 meters, (4934) above sea level.  It's one of the famous symbols of the pilgrim way of St James.  This is where I will be depositing the rocks I collected.  it's a big ascent that will require some determination and lots of rest stops.  The decent is probably the pretty grueling too.

The Knights Templars are thought to have had a presence here as early as the 12th century, ensuring safe passage over the mountain.  Apparently the parish church of Santa Maria was thought to be build by them.  Monks have taken up residence now and offer a pilgrims blessing.  One of the pilgrims I met a couple days ago did the reading, it was about Jews and circumcision.  At the end of the service I patted her on the back and said nice reading, she laughed and said what was all that circumcision talk about we laughed at the penis reading.  Baahaaa

Just relaxing and gonna turn the lights out.. Big climb in the am.  I hope it will be sunny.
We left at 7am, it was pitch black, I was only able to use one pole as I needed to hold my torch.  It was interesting watching all the pilgrims weaving there way along the path, silly lemmings!  We reached our cafe break at Foncebadon, 5.3km into the climb. I had a freshly squeezed orange juice... OMG is that what orange juice is suppose to taste like!

After 2km We reached the Cruz de Ferro by 10am. Apparently the tour buses arrive at 11.  It was a teary eyed moment.  The sun was shining a beautiful day.  We carried on down the way to Manjarin; a funky Albergue run my a modern knight hospitalero Tomas.

When we reached the down, it was pure goat trail; very thankful it was sunny, it could have been disastrous in torrential rain.  It was like walking in a down hill creek bed. I'm sure gel inserts had no effect!  We reached Acebo at 1pm.  I had to stop for a cerveza before finding our fancy ass accommodation.   It's the last alberque heading out of town, it looks like a resort.  It has a pool but it's not heated... Hmm how cold would it be, were in the mountains in Spain.  Anyways I'm cleaned up, sitting on the patio enjoying the view with Janis and having some much deserved libations.

Buen Camino 👣👣👣👣

Muias de Rechivaldo - Rabanal del Camino 16km

This hostel is nothing but fun! Kiko, the host is a riot! He loves my Canadian way, he says I'm on vacation!  Yup I am and any chance I get its gotta be fun.  I put my clothes through the washer an drier! Yeah who likes hand washing!  Shower was amazing! No silly cubical or scummy curtain that sticks to your ass! 😄 I think I really am a princess, not a pilgrim!  But I'm putting my best foot forward.  Btw my feet felt great today, deciding to be kind to myself is awesome!
I'm in a room of six, 3 men and Janis an I.  The top bunk was empty.  We had an awesome dinner!  Yeah. Meat with a bone, did I tell you I love the bone!  It's dark again an I'm sitting in the hallway waiting to talk to saucalita, then it's  off to bed.
It was a great to chat with Emily, she said I almost brought tears to her eyes.  Me I'm happy to say I was able to carry on a conversation without a lump in my throat.

We headed out at 7:30 in search of a cafe, our roommates left around 6am.

We head towards the mountain and tomorrow climb to the highest point on the Camino.  It was chilly when I left this morning so I added my fleece.  Janis walked the first 9km to El Ganso.  It's sad to see the crumbling village.  

I waited for her at the cowboy bar.  When I approached the bar I was laughing and saying is this where they great you with "Hello Pilgrim". Someone asked if I was the one giggling on the Camino, yup when I'm not winching in pain. (I'm not really).  When I went into the bar I asked for Agua since it was only 10:30 and I don't imbibe while walking but the bartender said only whiskey.  

It was another 7km to Rabanal, it was hot and my feet were tiring.  It wasn't to long before I came across a knight and his falcon.

I stopped and I was thrilled to see Jen, man she's a hoot.   She needed to elevate her feet so she just flopped on the ground.

From there it was a bit steeper accent through woodland, holm oak and pines.  but I asked my people on the other side to help me, they obliged and I arrived at my destination at 1 pm. I'm showered fed and thinking of a siesta before attending the pilgrims mass before the steep path over Monte Irago.

Buen Camino 👣👣👣

Hospital de Orbigo - Murias de Rechivaldo 22km

My apartment had a spare room for two, a kitchen, sitting room and bathroom with a tub for 25 euros, hell I could have had a peregrino party, but most can't walk up 6 flights of stairs.  Thst being said, I had a great snooze from 3 to 6, showered and headed out to see the Framacia for some advice.  She hooked me up with some good drugs and some boost juice.  I then hit the mercado and purchase my supplies for the next day.  Down by that amazing bridge I stopped an had a glass of vino tinto then headed back to my Alberque.  Weefee was strongest in the bar so I ordered dinner and tried chatting with saucalita.

I had salad mixta and a bone in pork chop.  Can't wait to sink my teeth into a good steak! I had some vino, then it was bed time.  It was fun trying to find my apartment, I thought I remembered which one.  My keys were on a 3" piece of wood.  It's pitch fucking dark on the stairs so I'm feeling my way.  I reach the door and try my keys.  I can't make this f' n keys fit, I'm rattling and twisting all the time thinking Fuck I gotta walk down and get the right key. So as I'm leaving I notice another hallway. What the hell let's try that an low and behold my keys worked.   I had a great nights sleep!

Up before sunrise and out on the way around at 7:45.  I walked with Kelly, she's got children the same age as mine sunshines.  She left her husband at home son will meet up in Santiago.  We had a great day.  We met lots of people and took lots of pictures an breaks.  When we reached a spot where there would be no water for 7km a young women asked where the fuente was, we looked at her and though oh no, I gave her my extra water and she said I was her life safer today.  Adrianna is from Croatia, she's wandering Spain looking for a home.  It was very hot today.  I'm hopping it stays sunny, that's being optimistic.

After entering Astorga an visiting the chocolate shop an cathedral Kelly and I said good bye, I walked out of town an hailed a taxi for the last 5 Kms.  I arrived at my Hostel, showered, got my clothes in the machine and am now enjoying rather late afternoon Spanish sun.  It's off to Rabanal del Camino in the morning. Let's hope it's another blue sky kind of day.

Until then
Buen Camino 👣👣👣👣👣👣

Villar De Mazarife - Hospital De Orbigo 15km

I had a San Miguel when I got to Mazarife, showered and headed into town to get some groceries, bread, cheese, kiwi, banana and a tomato. The little mercado was called combustibles Julia, I figured any tienda with Julia in the name would have fruits & Veggies 😊 Yeah fresh food.  I walked around and saw that this is the village that has the storks, unfortunately the storks are still away but I saw their nests perched atop the church bells.  It was another beautiful blue sky day.
I sat on the veranda and enjoyed my dinner in the sunshine.  I watched the sun set. Just going to relax and hopefully catch some sleep.
More squeaking bunk beds, no one was in the one next to mine 😊.  There hasn't been to much snoring, unless I'm the one 💤💤💤 but people do get up at 5:45 and are out the door for 6am.

I headed out before sunrise, cause that's what you do.... The first leg was 10 km on a long straight road, stopped at the bar in Villavante for a cold drink, then on with the next 5km which was a little more interesting.

Hospital De Orbigo has interesting history; in the 12th century Knights Hospitaller of St John build a hospital on the far side of the river.  Be guessing that's how the town got its name, an you all thought I was going to the hospital, let's hope not! 😆 It's one of the longest and best preserved medieval bridges in Spain dating from the 13th century.  But the coolest thing is that a knight from Leon, Don Suero de Quinones, scorned by a beautiful lady, threw down the gauntlet to any knight who dared to pass, he successfully defended the bridge for a month until the 300 lances had been broken. He went on to Santiago to offer thanks for his freedom from the bonds of love.

As you can se it's another blue sky day.

I was here around 12:00, found my Albergue La Encina. I'd met a Canadian, Kelly from Jasper at the bar I'd stopped in, she said she'd heard there was a Joan from Canada, hmm I'll have to ask her more, anyways she asked me to share a room, but I declined, I'm wanting some space.  Don't ya know my room is on the 5th floor, I just looked at the guy, like sure give the cripple a room on the top floor.  In our broken communication he agreed to haul my pack up the 10 flights of stairs when it arrives.  👏👏👏

The wee fee (that's Spanish for wifi) don't work so good in my room, so I'm once again sitting in a bar drinking a Mahou and filling you all in on my day.   I hope your all enjoying the blog and photos.

I'm heading to a village called Murias de Rechivaldo, just 5km past Astorga, which is a rich in Templar history, but I want to shave off 5 clicks on the climb into Rabanal, from there only 260 Kms- Santiago

Buen Camino 👣👣👣👣