El Acebo - Ponferrada 19km

We were served a nice cena, I had salad and spaghetti carbonara and ice cream an vino tino of course.  We had a fabulous view from our deck.  Once the sunset I went to bed.

We were up at 6:30, but didn't strike out till daylight, it's hard enough walking on a goat trail, I didn't think I needed the extra challenge.

Our first stop was in this pretty little mountain town, with over hanging balconies and beautiful flowers; Riego de Ambros would be a sweet romantic getaway!

We continue down the goat trail, lots of slate, and boulders to navigate.. I'm thankful we had another sunny day.  Today when pilgrims passed me I greeted them with baa, instead of the usual Buen Camino.  They just laughed, some hugged me too.  I'm not sure what sound a goat makes but it was pretty funny.   After 4.7km we cross over the Puente de Peregrinos into Molinaseca.  The bridge is amazing.  It was about 11ish and I was getting hambre.  I spied a sign advertising a bacon, eggs and beans desayuno for 4 euros.  It's probably the best food I've had yet and the setting was magical.

Onward to Ponferrada about another 8kms, it was a hard walk, mostly on pavement, the rest on dusty tracks.  When I finally reached  Av. Del Castillo I was delighted to see the Castillo de los Templarios, the magnificent 12th century Templar castle.  I ran into Kelly and we walked to Albergue Guiana and got checked in.

I really wanted to go back to the castle, so after I found a bank machine I went back and found a bar across the street so I could have a cerveza  and admire the view.  It opened a 6pm, Kelly an I decided we needed to go tour it, this is her first time in Europe too!
I'm back at the Albergue, showered an hanging out in the common room.  My dogs are tired so I think I'll take it easy.  It's a short walk tomorrow 16km to Cacabelos.  I need to figure out my timing so I can be coming into the square in Santiago so that my people will be.  Geez, writing that must mean I'm actually gonna make it to Santiago!

Rabanal Del Camino - Acebo 17 grueling kilometers

I had a lovely siesta from 4 to 6, then did my shopping for tomorrow's walk.
We're heading to La Cruz de Ferro at 1505 meters, (4934) above sea level.  It's one of the famous symbols of the pilgrim way of St James.  This is where I will be depositing the rocks I collected.  it's a big ascent that will require some determination and lots of rest stops.  The decent is probably the pretty grueling too.

The Knights Templars are thought to have had a presence here as early as the 12th century, ensuring safe passage over the mountain.  Apparently the parish church of Santa Maria was thought to be build by them.  Monks have taken up residence now and offer a pilgrims blessing.  One of the pilgrims I met a couple days ago did the reading, it was about Jews and circumcision.  At the end of the service I patted her on the back and said nice reading, she laughed and said what was all that circumcision talk about we laughed at the penis reading.  Baahaaa

Just relaxing and gonna turn the lights out.. Big climb in the am.  I hope it will be sunny.
We left at 7am, it was pitch black, I was only able to use one pole as I needed to hold my torch.  It was interesting watching all the pilgrims weaving there way along the path, silly lemmings!  We reached our cafe break at Foncebadon, 5.3km into the climb. I had a freshly squeezed orange juice... OMG is that what orange juice is suppose to taste like!

After 2km We reached the Cruz de Ferro by 10am. Apparently the tour buses arrive at 11.  It was a teary eyed moment.  The sun was shining a beautiful day.  We carried on down the way to Manjarin; a funky Albergue run my a modern knight hospitalero Tomas.

When we reached the down, it was pure goat trail; very thankful it was sunny, it could have been disastrous in torrential rain.  It was like walking in a down hill creek bed. I'm sure gel inserts had no effect!  We reached Acebo at 1pm.  I had to stop for a cerveza before finding our fancy ass accommodation.   It's the last alberque heading out of town, it looks like a resort.  It has a pool but it's not heated... Hmm how cold would it be, were in the mountains in Spain.  Anyways I'm cleaned up, sitting on the patio enjoying the view with Janis and having some much deserved libations.

Buen Camino 👣👣👣👣

Muias de Rechivaldo - Rabanal del Camino 16km

This hostel is nothing but fun! Kiko, the host is a riot! He loves my Canadian way, he says I'm on vacation!  Yup I am and any chance I get its gotta be fun.  I put my clothes through the washer an drier! Yeah who likes hand washing!  Shower was amazing! No silly cubical or scummy curtain that sticks to your ass! 😄 I think I really am a princess, not a pilgrim!  But I'm putting my best foot forward.  Btw my feet felt great today, deciding to be kind to myself is awesome!
I'm in a room of six, 3 men and Janis an I.  The top bunk was empty.  We had an awesome dinner!  Yeah. Meat with a bone, did I tell you I love the bone!  It's dark again an I'm sitting in the hallway waiting to talk to saucalita, then it's  off to bed.
It was a great to chat with Emily, she said I almost brought tears to her eyes.  Me I'm happy to say I was able to carry on a conversation without a lump in my throat.

We headed out at 7:30 in search of a cafe, our roommates left around 6am.

We head towards the mountain and tomorrow climb to the highest point on the Camino.  It was chilly when I left this morning so I added my fleece.  Janis walked the first 9km to El Ganso.  It's sad to see the crumbling village.  

I waited for her at the cowboy bar.  When I approached the bar I was laughing and saying is this where they great you with "Hello Pilgrim". Someone asked if I was the one giggling on the Camino, yup when I'm not winching in pain. (I'm not really).  When I went into the bar I asked for Agua since it was only 10:30 and I don't imbibe while walking but the bartender said only whiskey.  

It was another 7km to Rabanal, it was hot and my feet were tiring.  It wasn't to long before I came across a knight and his falcon.

I stopped and I was thrilled to see Jen, man she's a hoot.   She needed to elevate her feet so she just flopped on the ground.

From there it was a bit steeper accent through woodland, holm oak and pines.  but I asked my people on the other side to help me, they obliged and I arrived at my destination at 1 pm. I'm showered fed and thinking of a siesta before attending the pilgrims mass before the steep path over Monte Irago.

Buen Camino 👣👣👣

Hospital de Orbigo - Murias de Rechivaldo 22km

My apartment had a spare room for two, a kitchen, sitting room and bathroom with a tub for 25 euros, hell I could have had a peregrino party, but most can't walk up 6 flights of stairs.  Thst being said, I had a great snooze from 3 to 6, showered and headed out to see the Framacia for some advice.  She hooked me up with some good drugs and some boost juice.  I then hit the mercado and purchase my supplies for the next day.  Down by that amazing bridge I stopped an had a glass of vino tinto then headed back to my Alberque.  Weefee was strongest in the bar so I ordered dinner and tried chatting with saucalita.

I had salad mixta and a bone in pork chop.  Can't wait to sink my teeth into a good steak! I had some vino, then it was bed time.  It was fun trying to find my apartment, I thought I remembered which one.  My keys were on a 3" piece of wood.  It's pitch fucking dark on the stairs so I'm feeling my way.  I reach the door and try my keys.  I can't make this f' n keys fit, I'm rattling and twisting all the time thinking Fuck I gotta walk down and get the right key. So as I'm leaving I notice another hallway. What the hell let's try that an low and behold my keys worked.   I had a great nights sleep!

Up before sunrise and out on the way around at 7:45.  I walked with Kelly, she's got children the same age as mine sunshines.  She left her husband at home son will meet up in Santiago.  We had a great day.  We met lots of people and took lots of pictures an breaks.  When we reached a spot where there would be no water for 7km a young women asked where the fuente was, we looked at her and though oh no, I gave her my extra water and she said I was her life safer today.  Adrianna is from Croatia, she's wandering Spain looking for a home.  It was very hot today.  I'm hopping it stays sunny, that's being optimistic.

After entering Astorga an visiting the chocolate shop an cathedral Kelly and I said good bye, I walked out of town an hailed a taxi for the last 5 Kms.  I arrived at my Hostel, showered, got my clothes in the machine and am now enjoying rather late afternoon Spanish sun.  It's off to Rabanal del Camino in the morning. Let's hope it's another blue sky kind of day.

Until then
Buen Camino 👣👣👣👣👣👣

Villar De Mazarife - Hospital De Orbigo 15km

I had a San Miguel when I got to Mazarife, showered and headed into town to get some groceries, bread, cheese, kiwi, banana and a tomato. The little mercado was called combustibles Julia, I figured any tienda with Julia in the name would have fruits & Veggies 😊 Yeah fresh food.  I walked around and saw that this is the village that has the storks, unfortunately the storks are still away but I saw their nests perched atop the church bells.  It was another beautiful blue sky day.
I sat on the veranda and enjoyed my dinner in the sunshine.  I watched the sun set. Just going to relax and hopefully catch some sleep.
More squeaking bunk beds, no one was in the one next to mine 😊.  There hasn't been to much snoring, unless I'm the one 💤💤💤 but people do get up at 5:45 and are out the door for 6am.

I headed out before sunrise, cause that's what you do.... The first leg was 10 km on a long straight road, stopped at the bar in Villavante for a cold drink, then on with the next 5km which was a little more interesting.

Hospital De Orbigo has interesting history; in the 12th century Knights Hospitaller of St John build a hospital on the far side of the river.  Be guessing that's how the town got its name, an you all thought I was going to the hospital, let's hope not! 😆 It's one of the longest and best preserved medieval bridges in Spain dating from the 13th century.  But the coolest thing is that a knight from Leon, Don Suero de Quinones, scorned by a beautiful lady, threw down the gauntlet to any knight who dared to pass, he successfully defended the bridge for a month until the 300 lances had been broken. He went on to Santiago to offer thanks for his freedom from the bonds of love.

As you can se it's another blue sky day.

I was here around 12:00, found my Albergue La Encina. I'd met a Canadian, Kelly from Jasper at the bar I'd stopped in, she said she'd heard there was a Joan from Canada, hmm I'll have to ask her more, anyways she asked me to share a room, but I declined, I'm wanting some space.  Don't ya know my room is on the 5th floor, I just looked at the guy, like sure give the cripple a room on the top floor.  In our broken communication he agreed to haul my pack up the 10 flights of stairs when it arrives.  👏👏👏

The wee fee (that's Spanish for wifi) don't work so good in my room, so I'm once again sitting in a bar drinking a Mahou and filling you all in on my day.   I hope your all enjoying the blog and photos.

I'm heading to a village called Murias de Rechivaldo, just 5km past Astorga, which is a rich in Templar history, but I want to shave off 5 clicks on the climb into Rabanal, from there only 260 Kms- Santiago

Buen Camino 👣👣👣👣

Leon - Alt. Villar De Mazarife 25km

Yesterday afternoon I was sitting in the common room at the Albergue and a woman sat down beside me, I introduced myself, Janice is from Edmonton and has been in Leon for 3 nights as she's been blessed with Achilles tendinitis, the doctor prescribed pain killers and rest.  We got to chatting an I told her I had a box of 600mg ibuprofeno and that I was taking 3 a day.  She asked if we could do a drug deal.😱 So  now I'm in possession of painkillers, chances are I won't be using them.  Framacia told me not to mix drugs.  Anyways it was to early to contact my physiotherapist; it was Saturday and she was probably sleeping. So Janice an I walked over to a little bar and consumed our share of vino an cervazas; the chef gave us a plate of paella, good thing Janice is Scottish, she can't waste anything so she ate it 😀 round two we were presented with a plate of homemade potato chips, ok that was no problem, then plates of olives.  Needless to say we didn't need to find any cena.  Back at the Albergue I taped her foot per Kadi's instructions.  Was in bed fairly early.

I tried to call a taxi from the Albergue around 7:30 but it's Sunday an all I got was a busy signal.  I started walking an thought I'd just hail a taxi, that didn't work either, no worries.  I was able to see a few other sites I'd missed yesterday.

It took me about 2 hours to reach La Virgen Del Camino 10.8km to the Option.  I had a cafe then found the scenic route.  I walked through peaceful hamlets an villages, the stretch between Oncina an Chozas de Abajo was long an hot so I plugged in and carried on down the way.  4.2 clicks I was at San Antonio de Padua.  I arrived at 2:15.  I'm probably the only Canadian.  It'll be an interesting night the beds are touching each other.  Virginia would have a fit 😀.  She's in Leon in a smancy hostel Boccalino.  I passed on the communal dinner, their serving paella, need I say more!  Tomorrow I'm only walking 15km to Hospital De Orbigo. I'm trying to break up the stages, next few days will be lots of elevation.  Until then.

Buen Camino 👣👣👣👣

Evening in Sahagun

Jennifer an I headed out to a little bar that had maple leaf trees to shade us from the Spanish sun.  I had a San Miguel and they served us these delicious green olives.  When we got back to our room we had a new bunk mate, Nellie, I met her about 5 nights ago, we had a good chat an talked about walking on.  It's been fun to cross paths.  I attended the mass, my goodness those nuns are so old, it was interesting to watch.  There was two youngish ones, one was yawning, the other one was itching her head constantly, the older ones helped each other find their pages, they looked to be about 90.
 We ate dinner and that will be the last time I eat a pilgrim meal, it was bloody awful, 1st we were served about 3 cups if not 4 of penne with a little bit of tomato sauce, then came the entree, a piece  of ham the size of a playing card, a mound of fries and 3 fried croquettes that the filling was a mystery.  Pretty sure I got my salt intake for a month or two; oh and warm banana yogurt.  At least the sisters brought us an extra bottle of vino to wash it down.  I'm not trying to be ungrateful but geez where is the vegetables, it's not like we're not walking through farming communities.

Leon via Renfe Coche 45 minutes = 57 km

I arrived at the train station beforehand sunrise, seems that's the norm.  Again there was quite a few pilgrims jumping stages or finishing their Camino an heading home.  What a beautiful blue sky day.  It was a quick ride into Leon, my Alberque is on the way but the train station was clear across town.  1\2 later walking against the yellow arrows I found Alberque Check in Leon, it opened in 2015.  Modern an clean but not near the old town.

 Once I check in I headed right back out to see some sites. I retraced the yellow arrows and found the Catedral, where I found all the fresh produce I've been missing.  I went into the plaza de San Isodoro Museo Panteon; for all you Monty Python and Indian Jones I saw the Holly Grail, and lots more medieval religious art and artifacts. Sorry no pictures, you'll have to come see for yourself.  I walked the streets but my feet were getting tired so I retraced my steps, stopped in at a fruit stand and picked up a couple of things for today an tomorrow.  Just going to relax an organize my next few days.

Terradillios de los Templarios to Sahagun about 13 1/2 km

I left before sunrise, I heard the roosters cock-a-doodle-doo, what a delightful sound. As the sun rose it shone on the wheat fields turning them beautifully golden.  3.2km down the path I came to Moratinos; I was thrilled to see little caves which are "bodegas", they were used in the past for food and wine-making. There's only a few Moratinos families who still make wine, but the caves are still used occasionally to store cheese, hams and vegetables. I did knock on a few doors but there was no Hobbits at home.  Their probably walking the Camino.

After a cold drink I came across some trees on the way out of town that had been yarn bombed.  It brought Kadi & Leah to mind.

 This whole area is linked to the Templar order which I find interesting.  Today brought me to the half way mark and into the Provincia De Leon. Another 4.2km I came across Our lady of the Bridge Ermita Virgen del Puente XIIth C a Romanesque sanctuary.

Another 2 clicks an I was in Sahagun.  I was early so had to wait for the Monasterio to open.  Had a shower, purchased my train ticket, bought some lunch and am now sitting in the garden.  Just going to rest this afternoon.  I'll attend my 3rd pilgrim blessing before dinner then eat with the Madres Benedictinas, there serving carne tonight 👏😊 it's been days since I've had any meat.  Until Leon, Buen Camino

Carrion de los Condes to Terradillios de los Templarios 27.3km via autobus

Apparently the Counts of Carrion met with premature death by the hands of El Cid after they mistreated his daughters. There are 3 churches here; Iglesias de Santa Maria del Camino which depicts the frightful annual 'tribute" of the 100 maidens demanded of by the conquering Moors. That's enough bastardized history lesson from me.

I had a leisurely morning, my roommates, Virginia and Jennifer; she's from California but originally from New Zealand were up an out the door by 7:30, it was gong to be a long hot day out on the Meseta.  17km without any Water stops.  They asked me to meet up with them in Sahagun; which is a 10km walk for me tomorrow.  I agreed and will see them at the Monasterio de Santa Cruz.  Then I'm on my own again since I'll be taking the bus to Leon if I can find accommodation for Saturday October 1st.  

I spent some time walking around the town, had a cafe an Croissant, they love pastries for breakfast.  I'll take a hard boiled egg, it doesn't even have to be 8 minutes.  I moseyed down to the bus stop, there was several pilgrims waiting, most were going on to Leon. It was fun to watch traffic and people.    I met a wonderful woman Jen and her husband Mike, they've been waking for a month.  Mike is 78, he agreeded to accompany his wife on Camino.  She speaks English, French an German and she's having a ball talking with men sitting around in their underwear on bunk beds.  I suspect it's a little easier with more than one language.  The bus dropped me off around 1pm, I booked a private room 😊, did my laundry an am now sitting on the veranda having a king size Mahou clasica.  The pilgrims who walked today are arriving.  no pictures, from today, wifi is not able to access the camera.
 Until next time Buen Camino 👣👣👣

Fromista to Carrion de los condes 19.5km

Like I said I had the pilgrim menu at Albergue Estella del Camino; the sopa  was excellente; not sure why I can't eat two entrees though.  Big ass bowl of soup and then 1/4 of a tortilla pie, jamon and roasted peppers, then flan bread and vino!  I was tired so I was in my lovely bed by 8pm, because we checked in as a triple they set up a bed in the breeze way. So I was fortunate to have pilgrims walking by every other minute.  When I finally got to sleep the warden threw on the lights at 6:45 and told everyone to be out by 7:30.  Blurry eyed I made it to the breakfast table by 7:10 and out the door by 7:30.  Oh what fun!  There was this young man who checked in who had been chasing a girl for 47km, had the nastiest looking blisters he'd hoped to stay another night but the warden said no way take your sore ass and fucked up feet and get out!  I'm not going to tell you what nationality they were!  I walked out of town as the sun was rising, it was beautiful and slow.

  There was an option to take the hard way or the rio way, Brad Pitts son, well he looked like Brad to me wandered by an we decided to follow the painted arrows to the right of the rio.  To bad he had a walking partner an his gait is bigger then mine! The rio was a nice change, no big ass rocks or hard ground.  I followed butterflies and listened to the birds chirp.  I crossed over a bridge and heard someone call my name.  It was Virginia an Jennifer, they'd taken the other route.  I had my usual snack a banana an Aquarius.. Several clicks down the way was the church of our lady of the river, stopped for a quick look see then were off again.  I was needing something to eat so got me a huge boccillio.

6 1/2 km down the dusty hot way I reached my next destination Hostel Santiago.  It's a triple room with bedding, towels and a bathtub if ones so inclined.  Yeah my pack was here!  I checked in an went looking for a beer or two .  My two traveling mates like to clean up first.  I found a great bar, after a beer the table next to me started gathering men sound, the cards and euros came out and the drinking an gambling began.  I went to the farmica and got drugs and ice.  Heading back for a shower and then out on the town. I'm on days off!

Castrojeriz to Fromista 26.1km

 Yesterday my sweet family came through, I love their support, and you dear friends your support means a lot to me too.  Gracias Amigos!  I went to dinner with Charles, Mark an Nicole their from Australia; Mark is on the Camino to lose weight and Charles is his walking partner an Nicole is Marks sister who has come to walk the Meseta with them.  We had the usual pilgrim menu; big ass plate of spaghetti and then roast chicken with fritas.  They serve everything with papa Frits.  My feet seem to work well when I walk but by God they hurt when I stop!  My word for today is fortunate! Because I was able to FaceTime my physiotherapist who gave me a few stretches and some rah rah you can do this.  My dear John who chatted with me and calmed me down and my sweet saucalita who sends me quotes and tells me not to cry!  She sent this picture sending me hugs and kisses.

I felt pretty good this morning; we left Castrojeriz 7:30am our usual time, still dark. We climbed onto the Meseta as the sun was rising, the Alto de Mostelares is at 1050m a 12% grade, and so what goes up must come down, funny watching everyone slalom poling down the other side, it's a knee saver.  We moseyed along the path for quite a while, we really didn't stop until Boadilla.  I decided I needed to stay standing so I ate my hard boiled egg and nuts along with a cold drink... Onward to Fromista another 5 km. We've crossed into another province, Provincia de Palencia, intense farming and a series of 18th century canals.  We all are sporting the Camino tan, left side much darker than the right 😊. The last kilometres are always brutal, I plugged in and click clacked on.  We arrived at 2:30. I'm showered and organizing tomorrow's accommodations.  We will once again eat pilgrim food.  I'll be stretching and having a few cervazas.  Until Carrion de Los Condes 👣👣👣 Buen Camino